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Do you want to catch more fish? Bigger fish?
If so, read on ...
Back in the 1980s, yellowtail kingfish were one of NSW's major sport and table fish. They roamed the NSW coast in countless millions. Juvenile kingfish (up to 60cms) busted up everywhere, in the bays and harbours. Offshore reefs like the Peak and the Banks were places where dozens of kingies, 10-15 kilos, could be caught in a day, on jigs or livebait. Really big fish – 'hoodlums' – took up residence around rocky headlands, where they were almost impossible to land.
In the 90s, that all changed. Commercial overfishing decimated breeding stocks. Pro fishermen (with the support of the greenies) introduced floating kingfish traps, arguing that the traps allowed them to release undersized kingfish and keep the mature ones. What they didn't tell the public was that undersized kingfish in the traps were removed by gaff, usually killing them in the process. Kingfish stocks plummeted. Some people feared they were past the point of no return.
In response to angler outrage, the NSW government finally banned floating kingfish traps. Initially, there was no sign of improvement. But over the last couple of years the kingfish biomass of the NSW coast has been increasing at a dramatic rate.
Jigging has come back. During winter, good-sized kings school over off-shore reefs, in 200-400 feet of water. The winter of 2007 offered the best kingie jigging in years.
In summer, these fish move inshore, and take up station around the headlands and through the estuaries.
Which brings us to January 2008. This summer has seen the best 'kingie' fishing in decades here in Sydney, and it's only going to get better.
Day after day we've been catching big numbers of kingfish, in Sydney Harbour, or around the Heads.
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Do you want to be a part of it?
Would you like to be catching hard fighting kingies, too?
Bream, flathead, and whiting are all challenging fish to catch and delicious, to eat. But there is nothing like the hard charging yellowtail kingfish, for excitement! They hit hard, they fight all the way to the boat, and they taste just great on your plate.
Here's how to do it.
First, you'll need a downrigger. Kingfish will hit baits lures and flies on the surface but most of the time (especially when the sun gets up or boat traffic is busy) they hold deep, in the water column. But they still can't resist a bait dragged past the school. Downrigging is an incredibly effective technique for catching kingfish.
We have three models available, to suit every boat and budget
The Model 100 is our entry level downrigger.
But no corners have been cut, in terms of quality!
It features:
• a one-metre long tilting boom. The boom is long, to keep your line away from the prop, even when making turns. It locks in both the 'up' and 'down' position, meaning it's still a compact unit, to manage and store.
• a gimbal base, which slots directly into your boatÕs rod holder. With our downrigger, you donÕt have to drill holes in your boat. And when youÕre not downrigging, the Model 100 can be easily stored in your rod rack.
• 15 metres/50 feet of cord, marked at 2 metre/6 foot intervals. Fifteen metres covers almost all estuary/ harbour and inshore downrigging. Simply set the weight at the required depth and hitch the cord to the cleat.
• a swivel boom head, which turns in the direction of your line.
• all aluminium (anodized for corrosion protection) and stainless steel, with Nylon¨ rollers.
Price: $180, including delivery.
Model 200
has a tilting boom (lockable up and down), so it doesn't take up much room when not being used.
• a removeable depth counter that reads down to 1000 feet, which is also very handy when spooling reels with line.
• 200 feet of superbraid (no cable=no kinks and no humming), 400 feet optional.
• a swivel boom head which makes tight turns (when you've spotted something good on the sounder) no problems.
• a rod holder with crosspin, adjustable for angle by hand (on a strong spring, with a detent pin.)
• all aluminium and s/steel construction, excepting two Nylon rollers in the boom head. No plastic to crack, stain or fade.
• a Du-Bro shock kit, which prevents your weight striking the top of the boom when you wind it up in a hurry.
• a gimbal base (included) which fits straight into your rod holder. With our downrigger you don't have to lose a rod holder. It's made of solid (not tube) alloy. Incredibly tough.
Price: $425, including delivery.
Model 300 12-volt electric downrigger
The model 300 has all the features of the model 200, but is fitted with a powerful 12-volt gearmotor.
Instead of winding up your downrigger weight you simply throw a switch.
This downrigger is fitted with a clutch so if you're too busy (say, fighting a fish) to turn it off when the weight is retrieved, no problems.
This model is undergoing final trials in Sydney, we expect to have it ready for sale at the end of January 2008.
Price, about $700.
Once you've decided on a downrigger your next move is to go catch a kingfish (or twenty.)
Here's how to do it!
Kingfish can be caught on many kinds of bait and lures, but they seem to bite best on live bait. Live squid are the number one bait, but are not always easy to get. If your fishing area has squid on tap, then you're a lucky angler. But there's nothing worse than spending prime kingie fishing time - early morning- fishing for bait, instead of fishing for kingfish. We have found that small live fish, particularly yellowtail and slimey mackerel, are nearly as good as squid, particularly when the kingies are on. But they have to be rigged properly. This is what works for us
Firstly, you'll need size 16 rubber bands. These are available at Officeworks (in a bag probably holding a couple of thousand) for $2.99.
You'll also need a bait needle, for this type of fishing the smaller the better. I use a wool sewing needle which has the eye cut away with a hacksaw. But a commercial bait needle is just as good, if you can find a small one in the tackle store.
Last of all you need yellowtail or slimey mackerel. If your live bait tank doesn't operate while the boat is planing, take a couple of stops en route to your fishing spot and run the pump. It's really important that the yakkas are healthy and oxygenated. We are finding that the hookup rate on smaller yellowtail is better. The kings take them in one gulp.
Rig your rod in the usual way. We use just a brass ring at the end of 10-kilo braid, then a metre of 60-pound test to a 4/0 or 6/0 short shank hook. But we use overhead reels for this type of fishing. if you're using a threadline, you’ll definitely need a good-quality swivel between your line and your trace. 4/0 hooks are good for small yellowtail.
Catch a yellowtail in your bait net and hold him firmly in one hand. It's often better to hold him inside the net, they're slippery buggers.
Push the needle through the front of the eye socket, with your rubber band attached:
As the loop comes through, stow the needle, and even up the rubber band so that it is of equal length on either side of the bait's head:
Take both of the rubber band loops and pass the hook through them, so that the loops sit in the gape. Turn the hook so the rubber band takes one full twist. Then pass the hook through the new formed loop of rubber band. Lower the bait into the water and check he's swimming comfortably upright.
Attach your downrigger dropback to the line, lower to the depth required, and you're good to go.
I like the rubber band method because the flex cushions sudden jerks from the line- particularly when you're using braid, and/or the seas are bumpy. Yellowtail will swim for a long time with this method, although if too long, might be time to find some new kingie grounds!
Any questions or queries, call Andrew on 0402 07 5000, or e-mail us.
Good luck!